“The cities told by citizens”: Viareggio (first part)

Today we have all the information at hand, 5 stars review restaurants,  bars with the best social pages, etc …
Sometimes it’s easy to get lost in too much information and there is still a grey zone, those places that can only be accessed by the advice of the locals.
There is always granfather Cesarino who makes the best pizza in town but has never touch a pc in his life, or the place where everyone goes to eat the donuts in the last 50 years.
It si from this that “ The cities told by citizens” starts, where you will find the essence of local life, as non-tourist restaurants where you find only fresh local product, bars where to have a snack when you are hungry , or even just a place where all the locals go to relax.
A guide to select the many information on the web and to find those secret places.



The cheerful and sunny city of Viareggio extends along the Tuscan coast, surrounded by natural beauties such as the Apuan Alps, Migliarino-San Rossore Natural Park and Massaciuccoli lake.
The sea has a sandy beach that stretches for 10km of which 6 are managed by beach clubs and 4 are free.
The name of the city derives from the Latin word via regis, the name of the road traced in the Middle Ages that connected the fortresses from the beach to Lucca.
The architectonic pride of Viareggio is the promenade, where there is a splendid liberty walk with many historical buildings.
On holidays and especially in summer it becomes the ideal place to take a walk during the day or in the evening.
The most important event remains the Viareggio Carnival , a big party that sets the whole city in motion.
During February-March everything changes, roads are closed and the air taste different.
Five parades of floats made in papier-mache and local street parties with music, costumes and dances.
A few years ago, the Cittadella of Carnival was built, where papier-mâché artists work during the year, and where we can also find a museum on the history of the Carnival .

But now we come to the question and answer between me and Viareggio people, and get ready to discover the city from voice of citizens:

What is the best fish restaurant in Viareggio?

Here the “Viareggini” (people from Viareggio) can choose from many restaurants that only cook fresh fish, but there is one very particular. It is a restaurant that has a 2 years waiting list, but if you get lucky by a phone call you can find a last-minute table. It’s called “ Amici del gusto ” and does not have a menù, it only cooks fish caught during the night , so you sit down and with € 35  eat and drink a series of local products. Another restaurant that only serves fresh fish is Buonumore , where we find both an à la carte menu and a tasting menu at € 35 (drinks not included ). Finally we have Bar Stadio where the portions are majestic and the bill is cheap. Here you will find the famous “Ragù co ‘coltellacci” (Razor shell sauce) and a “Fritto misto” (mixed fried fish) that cover your table entirely.

What is the best pizzeria in Viareggio?

If you want to eat a good pizza you have many choices. In the market area you will find “ La Contea ” a restaurant-pizzeria where you can opt for various types of excellent pizzas made with different flours. Another excellent pizzeria is “ Brambilla’s ” opened by talented young people, who in Viareggio have only the “delivery” offer but moving a few kms from here there is also the restaurant version. We also have “ Black Mouth ” (the old “Stige” for the Viareggio people) where you can taste some good pizzas in a pub with a large selection of special beers.

What is the best ice cream in Viareggio?

The most famous is definitely “ Laboratorio del Gelato ” where, depending on what time you go, the wait can be long but highly rewarded .But natives of Viareggio are regular customers of places like “ Nilo’s ” (where with a few euros you take a mega waffle filled with ice cream) or “ Mirella ” (where you go in the summer when you leave the sea ). Much appreciated  for its ice cream also “ Dolceamaro ” where you can find many vegan flavours.

Here ends the first part of our guide, soon followed by all the places that you should not miss if you want to breathe the air that floating through the streets of Viareggio.
We are waiting for you at Dulcis in Borgo , ready to welcome you in one of our rooms to give you all the advice on our territory and experiences to live.
Who want to follow our guides and our adventures, they can find us on our facebook page.
All the best
Marco ed Elisa

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